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Hi,
I found this at an auction earlier this year. It appears to be a Standard 6" with a muzzle brake and MK1 walnut thumbrest grips. The pistol itself dates to 1969; I am guessing that the brake and grips were added later (along with the scope, which I may take off). I have two questions: this is an INC brake- my research has been unable to tell me much except that these are the later and more scarce versions. The last thing I read estimated the value at about $175. I have not been able to find any that have sold in the past year or so, does that seem right? I wish I had a box with it. Also I am guessing that the grips were added at some point, these should have only come on Mk 1's , is that correct?

I'm just trying to get a feel for if I should enjoy it as it is or if I should remove the brake and find the original grips and put the others aside for safekeeping.

Thanks!

Greetings and welcome to the forum,,,,yes to answer your question that is an "Inc." muzzle brake, you can see the "Inc." in the address rollmark and interesting is the size usually does not fit over the front of the narrow, pencil barrel models (RST-4 or 6) so would be interesting to see just how they fit it to that gun,,,the brakes usually went on the larger muzzle diameter Mark Is T-678 ,T-514....still it looks good and set up for a target( bullseye?) shooter...the thumb rest grips were made for any of the RST or Mark Is, would not be a problem for most of us.....NICE gun,,,the proof is in just "how" it shoots, feels to the shooter and the accuracy....the break itself does NOT do a whole hell of a lot for muzzle jump in a 22 cal,,,it is more of the "added" weight to the end of the barrel...
thanks for sharing.......

I was curious so I made some calculations. The muzzle diameter of a T678 is .715".... The muzzle diameter of a RST6 is .555".... That is a difference of .160".... Divide the .160" by 2 to get .080"... A bushing made of brass shim stock built up to .075" - .078" would adapt the muzzle brake from a T678 to a RST6 quite well. It would center up the bore fairly close and be snugged down well with the Allen screws. Does this seem feasible?

I have not yet removed the brake but it appears to be secure. There may be a bushing in there I can't see. I will let you know as I need to take it off and clean it.

I just wondered if I should take the brake off and keep it separate for collector value, although I am curious to see the difference when shooting.

Hopefully this coming weekend I can shoot it. This is the only std. I own. I do have a mk ii target 10" which shoots very well but it is a bit on the heavy side.