I can't find the problem with my O.M. Single Six

[Marksman]

Hi there!
I am slowly going through a bunch of guns I bought in 3 collections and are running into some challenges. I have a 4 digit flatgate, that has the hammer stuck on position 3.
It goes to full cock and then when the trigger is pulled stops at the next click. So I finally took Jerry Kuhnhausen's book and followed the disassembly instructions. I am going to attach the picture of my "field of parts". It seems that all the parts are present, I don't see anything obvious (like a smoking gun ).
I also compared with some conversion parts that I received with some other guns that had transfer bars installed (mainly two LW's made in 1956 and 1957) which are close to my gun in question, which was made in 1954. All the parts seem to be the same and interchangeable with my 1954 made Single Six. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what I need to look for?

[RoninPA]

My first thoughts after reading what you wrote was that the trigger was not going back far enough for the sear to completely clear the hammer. Then I reread some more and had a questions come up.

When this happens, are you lowering the hammer with your thumb or letting it "free fall" like when firing it? If when lowering it your thumb, are you holding the trigger back or releasing it at the same time you are lowering the hammer?

[Marksman]

Thanks for helping me out.
I tried it both ways. I noticed the problem when I was done inspecting/documenting the details of the gun. In order to remove the cylinder I only needed to go to half cock. After I was done and ready to clean the gun, I took the hammer to full cock position in order to clean and re-lube the base pin holes and the hammer.
After I finished it all, I pulled the hammer back with my thumb and pulled the trigger trying to ease the hammer forward. The hammer got stuck on the next position. I released the trigger, took it back to full cock and tried it a couple more times with the same result. At that point I just pulled the trigger as so I was firing the gun. The hammer stopped again and I could clearly feel that it hit hard metal, there was no give. I expected to see something broken or missing inside, but I can't find anything wrong.
I also want to point out, that this is the very first time I am taking one of these guns that far apart.
I could try to put it back together and hope for a different outcome, but I thought I asked for some advise first.

[JAYDAWG]

Marksman,
If it is not the original cylinder for the gun this could be your problem. I have been told that it is possible to "fit" a non original cylinder to a frame, but that is beyond my abilities!!
Two times I had a cylinder/hammer issue. One was when I put the pawl spring/plunger that goes in to the back of the frame in backwards, meaning spring first. You should be looking at the spring when you pull the grip frame up to it.
The other time the cylinder latch/spring combo was not working freely and popping up and down as it should. The latch had some upset metal that was not allowing it to move up and down in the frame correctly. A little sand paper fixed it.
Good luck & let us know how you come out.

Cheers,
JAY

[Marksman]

Thanks for everyone's input so far.
I put the gun back together this afternoon and wound up with the same problem (adding the pictures at full cock and when the hammer is stuck on the next position). The cylinder is out when the problem occurs.

Full cock Frame Reduced.jpg (71.48 KiB) Viewed 7981 times

Frame Reduced second position.jpg (72.39 KiB) Viewed 7981 times

I suspected the cylinder latch and tried out two other latches from returned parts kits for guns close in vintage. The next picture shows the latch that came with the gun on top and the one below that belonged to a 1957 lightweight. The lower one has a cutout, it looks different.

I also tried a latch from a 1956 lightweight. Every time the hammer gets stuck. I am not sure what to do next. I have another two 4 digit guns that work perfectly. I could take them apart to compare............ but on second thought, maybe not.

[RoninPA]

Just a thought, did you pull the trigger spring plunger and spring out to make sure they aren't gunked up and not allowing the trigger to go back far enough?

[Marksman]

Yes, I checked that. All parts were pretty clean to start with. I only disassembled the receiver parts because the hammer wouldn't go forward.

[RoninPA]

Just tossing out thoughts at this point.

How does the trigger feel when pulling it - heavy, light, feel like it's rubbing against something?

Have you placed the trigger against another trigger to see if it is the exact same or if it possibly is bent/misshapen. It just sounds to me that it is just not coming forward enough to clear all the hammer notches.

How closely does the hammer pivot screw fit in the hole in the hammer - any slop?

[Marksman]

Ron,
All feels normal, there's no clue. I wish I had X-Ray vision and could see what is blocking the hammer. I think I will take one of the LW hammers and try it. If that doesn't work I will try a different trigger as well. Hope to report back soon. Thanks Mike

[Marksman]

Ron,
I think I found the culprit! I am not sure if you referred to it earlier or not, but this little plunger is frozen in place and does not move back into the side of the hammer as is the case with the other sample hammer I pulled.
I tried to break the bond, but it won't budge. I applied PB Blaster and will wait to see if I can convince it to come out. I suspect that this plunger and the spring that must be behind it will need to be replaced.

Here is hammer:

Here's the plunger in detail:

Is this the likely problem?